Friday, July 25, 2014
Trail Update from The Whites!
I can confidently say that this is the second time in my life that I have been completely blissed out (First being my wedding day). Hiking in the White Mountain National Forest, better known as "the whites", has been an experience I will always remember. The scenery has left me speechless. The rugged trail and 360 views humbled me and lifted my spirits.
We hiked at a significantly slower pace due to the fact that we couldn't resist stopping to look around every 30 minutes. The plan was to do a modest 10-12 miles through the Presidential Mountain range but quickly changed
to it 6-8 mile days. It's been a nice change to not think about the miles. Instead, we all have been soaking in every bit of the beautiful mountains and spontaneously setting up camp whenever we felt like it. We met a 60 year old fellow named Birdman and talked with him for a long time on our way up to Mount Washington. He was going north and had a wealth of advice for us, but one thing that stuck was to "just hike until ya get tired then pull over ... Take your time and enjoy everything."
Soon after that Stacey mooned the cog...twice. It's a thruhikers tradition apparently.
I was shocked when we reached Mt. Washington and had to stand in line to get a picture at the sign. "You mean I have to stand in line behind all of these people who rode a train up the mountain after we spent all day climbing it?!" Yeah, I had a moment of thruhiker self entitlement ... but I do think the hikers deserve an express pass.
I was a bit apprehensive about being above treeline for so many miles. Especially since the area was known for the worst weather in the nation; however, we were blessed with sunny days and cool breezes through the presidentials. God is definately looking out for us!
We just had one bad day of weather on top of Mt. Lafayette. A rain and hail storm forced us to change our plans at a trail intersection. The strong winds were so bad that we decided to take a side trail off the mountain to take cover under trees. Little did we know that the side trail would continue for another mile above treeline! Fire Squirrel, TallMilk and I spent half an hour trying to figure out how to get a message to Badweather that we were cutting our day short. We tried for a while to put duck tape on the trail sign but the storm was not letting it stick. Plus the sharpie was smearing off. Luckily, Fire Squirrel had the great idea to spell it out with rocks. We destroyed the nearest rock cairn and got to work on our message. Then we all prayed he would see it and ran for the trees.
After hours of being annihilated by the storm we finally reached Greenleaf hut. We walked in to the hut drenched to the bone (rain pants and jackets can only take so much) hoping they would allow us to do work for stay.
Sidenote: There are huts along the trail that allow thru-hikers to do "work-for-stay". For all my friends from the Smokies, think: Mt. Leconte Lodge. Day hikers and weekend hikers are able to hike from hut to hut with the luxury of not having to carry heavy packs.
The Greenleaf hut crew welcomed us with open arms and treated us like family. Kimble, the hut master, fed us soup and coffee cake as soon as we dried off. He even offered us one of his beers. As for our "work" duties, Fire Squirrel and Badweather gave a thruhiker presentation to the guests while TallMilk and I had to simply accompany the crew on a short walk to watch the sunset.
I was lovestruck with the whites. Even in the torrential downpour, I was loving every second.
Once we trekked up and down Mt. Moosilauke, we noticed the terrain had changed significantly. There are far fewer boulder fields and the elevation has remained fairly level. There has been more grassy areas which causes us to stop and check for ticks!
There has also been way more thruhikers! It seems like the Southbound and Northbound bubbles are colliding. I love how common it is to stop and chat with each hiker you pass. I often think about how it would be in the "real world" to stop and talk to strangers about their day, where they are coming from and where they plan to go. Wouldn't it be nice if we all legitimately cared about each other?
Exiting the White Mountain National
Forest was bittersweet for me. I felt like I was floating on the biggest fluffy cloud and I didn't want to ever leave. Although, it's amazing to know that one of the toughest parts of the trail is now behind us.
Our journey has continued to teach us about the Appalachian community. The kindness that surrounds this area is truly inspirational. We stayed a night at Mt. Cube Sugar farm where Maple Jimmy and owner, Pete, taught us the process of how they tap the trees to produce maple syrup. They also opened up their kitchen and let us make pancakes! The next night we stayed at legendary, Bill Ackerly's house. He is famous for giving hikers free ice cream in exchange for a game of croquet.
The hospitality and generosity of the trail soothes my soul. Thanks to all the trail angels who open up their home, give us rides and leave sodas in the river for us hikers!
We arrived in Hanover late Wednesday night, minutes before a thunderstorm. The town has a great reputation on the trail. Every Northbounder we passed has raved over all the free stuff that hikers get. We have all been looking forward to experiencing the "big" trail town since we left Gorham. Honestly, I'm not sure how I feel about it. It's a bit overwhelming after being in the woods for so long. Don't get me wrong, it's been a blast. We've toured the Hood Art Museum along with the rest of the Dartmouth campus, spent hours in a bookstore, took advantage of the free pizza and doughnuts for hikers and splurged on luxury hotels. I also found a folk clothing store and bought a new outfit. Although, being around this many people, cars, noises, choices and busyness has been rather stressful. I about had a panic attack when I tried to order a drink at Starbucks. The lady at the register was in a rush and tapping her finger while I quickly pushed the words, "grande soy vanilla latte" out of my mouth. Actually, everyone in the shop was in a rush. We saw other hikers just staring in the distance and realized we were not alone. We were in sensory overload. Anyway, it's good to be in town to do laundry and get clean, but mostly it's great to just rest.
Thanks to my sweet mom, loving South African family and our friends, Jodi and Kris for our care packages. It really does put smiles on our faces to read your letters and our food bags are now over flowing with yummies!
We are returning to the trail now ... well as soon as I visit the chocolate shop. Everyone is in a great mood and looking forward what the trail brings next. There is still so much to tell but the mountains are calling! Remember to enjoy your day and slow down a bit.
Also big shout out to my dear friends Shelby Vance and Amanda Tate! They are getting married!!!!! I can't wait to hug your necks!
Monday, July 7, 2014
Trail Update: Goodbye Maine, Hello New Hampshire!
Hi readers! Amber here. We've made it to New Hampshire. That's right- we've walked all the way through majestic, mossy, muggy, Maine. (insert happy dance) We are currently resting at the White Mountains Lodge & Hostel before we enter the infamous "White Mountains." Let's see . . . since the last update, not only have we crossed our first state line, these things have happened:I got my trail name: Dandelion.
- We raced down Baldpate Peak in thunder and lightening.
- A tree was 12 ft away from falling on our tent one night!
- Chief Badweather finally got a sleeping pad.
- We made it through the Mahoosuc Notch! (in the rain)
Maine,
Monday, June 30, 2014
TRAIL UPDATE: MILE 246.8; ANDOVER, ME
Ahh ... civilization once again. Coming into towns have been a big part of our encouragement while we are hiking. It's nice being able to shower and clean your clothes. It's also great to plop down on a bed instead of setting up a tent and blowing up a sleeping pad. I have developed an intense appreciation for civilization and all the things I can't have while I'm in the woods. For example, being able to eat raw, healthy foods that I can't carry with me. I'm looking forward to the opportunity to eat the biggest, vibrant salad ever!
Although, I must confess that it doesn't take very long for the mountains to call me back. I never thought I would miss being out in the wilderness after spending so much time out there . . . but I do. I miss the stillness and the sounds of nature. I miss the smells of the trees and the waters. I miss the simple life of waking up with the sun and going down with the moon. 
The trail since Rangeley has been great. We have had absolutely beautiful weather and the terrain has been pretty kind to our muscles and joints. (except for the 2 big wipe-outs Dad and I had) Stacey is feeling much better. The bugs have not been bad and we haven't hiked through any bogs! YAY! We've seen lots of frogs, snakes, squirrels and chipmunks; a few birds beavers, grouse, and loons; and one snapping turtle. Still no moose. We are seeing more and more Northbounders who have been informing us about what's ahead. We are all getting anxious about "the whites," but are thrilled for the views. Mom, stop googling and freaking yourself out. We will persevere!
We got a hitch from local into Andover, ME. It's is a very small town much like Monson and Stratton. We are staying at the Pine Ellis Hiker Lodge. It's kind of quirky, but full of character. The owner's ex-son-in-law showed us around and informed us of all the rules of the hostel. He's a Native American Indian form the Mayan tribe. I told him that I was currently reading a book about the Lakota tribe. He slowly turned around and grabbed a flute that was made from the Lakota. As he started playing it I thought about how awesome it was going to be pick his brain and learn all about his culture! Well so far I've learned that he believes Maine is the perfect state to die in because it only costs $25 for a pine box and someone to come cry at your funeral. While doing our laundry in his make shift garage I saw a huge pile of Moose scat. He is the infamous moose poo jewelry maker!! Apparently, there are people that actually pay money for a moose nugget necklace. Hey, to each his own, right?? Oh, wait. . . he just walked by me and asked if I wanted to learn how to play the flute. Awesome.
Other than that, it's been a typical town day. We've ate breakfast and lunch at the only restaurant. We resupplied at the restaurant. We picked up our care packages (thanks Momma, Lex, Mum T and John). We washed our clothes and hung them on the clothes line to dry. Now, we are all RELAXING. Stacey is e-mailing gear companies to tell them about how their products are holding up. Tuck is reviewing the elevation change in the White Mountains (yikes!). Dad is chatting with some fellow hikers. While I am keeping all of you sweet readers informed!
We are slack-packing tomorrow and staying one more night in Andover. I hope everyone back home is having a great day. Thanks for following our journey and encouraging us along the way. The East Tennessee tribe will continue to carry on!
Happy Trails,
Amber
Thursday, June 26, 2014
Trail Update: Mile 220.4; Rangeley, ME
The gang is doing well. We made a pit stop in Rangeley to dry out our gear and clothes since it has been raining the past several days. The town has been pleasantly surprising. It has everything we need and more: good pizza, a post office, a laundry mat, a motel with wifi and a decent coffee shop! We got a ride from a local named Erin, who offered to give us a ride back to the trail head tomorrow! (Amazing trail angel!)
